Functions Of Patternmaking Tools

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Tools provide the symbols used in marking fabric and patterns in the production of garments. Symbols are like a silent language that is understood among the designer, seamstress, grader, marker maker, and production personnel. Without these symbols, garments would not be cut or stitched with accuracy, Missing or misplaced symbols disrupt the flow of production.

Notch Tools

The notch tool has a cutting blade that slips into the pattern's edge, leaving and 1/8 to 1/4-inch cut-out. As the patterns are traced, the notch cut-outs are marked on the fabric. The cutter slashes the fabric at these locations. the seamstress assembles and stitches the garment parts following the notches.

The notches are used indicate: Seam allowance

• Centerlines.
• İdentification of front and back pattern parts
• Correct assembling of similar pattern parts Correct location of joining parts. Gather and ease control. Dart intake
• Shoulder tip of extended shoulders.
• The waistline of one-piece garments.
• Zipper stopping point.
• Fold-back for hems and facings.
• Placement for inserts.
• Tension release (acute curves)
• İnverse corners

Awl Punch and Circle

The awl puts a hole (or mark) on the pattern.The hole is circled to notify the marker maker that a drill is needed to burn a hole in the fabric, which damages the garment. That is why the placement of the drill hole is always inside the finished seam (to cover the damage in the fabric).

• Dart back-off point
• 1/8 inch in from corners.
• Buttonholes and buttons.
• Trimming.
• Pocket placements.